And on the way back from a hard days digging at the post-Meroitic house a quick stop off for a cup of tea before getting the ferry from Eishashi to Alhadiab. The main dish most people in Sudan eat is Ful, not to everyone’s taste it’s a bean stew: Tin of Ful beans Onion Salt Pepper Chilli Cumin (a generous pinch) Seasame oil Tin of chopped tomatoes Chop the onion then fry until golden. Add the tomatoes, a pinch of salt, pepper and cumin, stir well. Drain the water from the Ful beans then add to the pan. Simmer gently until cooked. Eat with goats cheese or any crumbly salty white cheese (feta is probably the closest comparison), chilli to taste and lots of sesame oil. Dispense with your forks and use bread instead.